|Down-home cookin’? Fried Apalachicola oysters with a French rémoulade.|
The New York Times’ R.W. Apple tells us how Birmingham (that’s right, the one in Alabama) became home to one of the best restaurants in the country. No lie.
It took the food establishment a long time to notice. Big-city critics don’t visit Birmingham very often. But last year Mr. Stitt won the James Beard award as the region’s best chef, and Gourmet magazine placed Highlands fifth on its list of the 50 best restaurants in America, just behind Spago Beverly Hills and just ahead of Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago and Daniel in New York. If you close your eyes, the magazine suggested, you could almost imagine that Alabama was “somehow sandwiched between Mississippi and Provence.”